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Planting Bareroot Roses Bareroot planting should take place as early in the season as the ground is workable--that’s now, in our area. Bareroot planting should be finished by the middle of April--after that, the temperature tends to rise to the point where the tops of the bushes are stimulated into developing leaves. It is best for the overall health of the plant to get the roots growing and established before they are required to supply the top with nutrients and water. Keep bareroot plants cool and moist until they are planted. If you’re planting within a day or two of purchase or arrival in the mail, place the roots, or even the entire plant, in water. Add a small amount of root stimulator or water soluble fertilizer in the first bucket of water--after that, use fresh water every day. If weather or other conditions prevent immediate planting, dormancy can be maintained (a must) by taking the plants outside, placing them in a horizontal position, covered with a layer of straw, or burlap, and then a layer of soil. This is called being “hilled under”. Dig planting holes generously--at least 18”-24” across, and 14”-18”deep. Make sure to spread the roots out--cramming roots will hamper growth. Make a cone of soil to support the plant, if necessary, so that roots can be spread. Save the uppermost soil from the hole to fill in around the plant--”top” soil is the most likely to have been improved. This is a good rule to follow for all plantings--don’t put a plant into soil that hasn’t been amended with nutrients and materials that will break up our clay soils. It is easiest to amend the soil as it’s dug up--it can be mixed in a wheelbarrow and returned to the hole. Before planting, cut off any broken roots, and nip off the tip of each root to stimulate root growth. Prune each stem to an outward facing bud eye, making a cut 1/4” to 3/8” above the bud eye. Make this a diagonal cut, so that water on the cut runs down into the center of the plant. Cuts can be sealed with cane sealer, white glue, or clear nail polish--this foils cane borers. For Hybrid Teas and Floribundas, leave a total of three or four well spaced stems. Leave four or five well spaced stems for Floribundas, Miniatures, Climbers, or shrub-type roses. Stems can be left five to ten inches long. Remove the wire-hung tag and place it separately on a stake next to the planted rose. In our climate, plant grafted-type roses with the bud union just above the soil level--you’ll need to cover the bud union in the winter. Place a small amount of root stimulator in the bottom of the hole--keep it at the root level for most effective use by the plant. When the hole is half filled with soil, fill it with water. Then finish filling with soil, and water again. A small amount of water soluble fertilizer can be mixed in the final watering. When the water has subsided, gently firm the soil around the plant. Don’t tamp with your feet--this is counterproductive with clay soils. [bareroot planting info from the Denver Rose Society] (Mar. 03)Back to the Hemmerich Memorial Rose Garden! One of the most pleasant, and educational, aspects of active membership with GVRS, is the opportunity to work with the rose beds at the Botanical Garden. Established by GVRS founder Ursula Hemmerich, and donated to the Botanical Garden, these beds currently hold 60+ roses of more than 45 varieties. GVRS members have worked with the roses for the last three summers, and each summer we’ve fallen a little more in love, and a LOT more in admiration. The colors--the fragrances--wow! The following is a list of the roses that are currently in the rose beds, with some commentary. The numbers are the 1-10 rating numbers from the American Rose Society. We have the 2002 ARS Handbook for Selecting Roses available for sale--an essential guide! Caroline de Monaco HT (7.3) Summers
Kiss (not rated/listed) There are also 9 unidentified rose bushes, and a few open spaces. We’ll be adding and subtracting roses indefinitely--someday, there might be an arbor! We use these beds for our annual pruning demonstration, and continue watering, feeding, and pruning them throughout the summer and fall until dormancy. Care of these beds is a primary commitment of GVRS--we’ll be establishing a schedule for care later in the season. Join us this year in the rose garden, and bring sharpened pruners, long gloves, and a vase!
Back to Rose Care This page last modified: December 22, 2003 |
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